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As Bleed the brakes on his bike most successful motor

The first time I decided to disassemble the front brakes on my Honda Superdream, I thought it's best to follow the manual. I bought one on eBay and then properly turned to follow the instructions as carefully as possible. All very well, the manual was from a company a good reputation (famous in the United Kingdom of strip-lowest of any vehicle you could mention) and most of what he said was accurate and useful. However, when it was bleeding the brakes I found that the information given was hopeless.

In fact the proposed method is consistent with Most of the manuals and is considered by many to be the only way to bleed air brakes. That said, I could not make it work! So you can see what I mean quote

"Controlling the level of the reservoir, and fill almost to the top. Place a bottle under the unit brake caliper and connect a clear plastic tube the caliper bleed screw in the container so that the pipe is always submerged below the liquid surface. Loosen the bleed screw one full turn and the pump handlebar lever slowly. As the liquid is expelled from the bleed screw in the tank level will drop. Continue the pumping action of the lever until it has air bubbles emerge from the end of the pipe. "

I will not quote further, as it was at that moment when I discovered that the liquid just do not seem to flow of blood from the nipple in the way described above. The handlebar lever is still spongy and I have finally decided after pumping slowly for at least 20 minutes to think of another way to clean the air in the system.

One key problem with motorcycles is that the brake lever is just above the handle bars, well above the shoe drive, unlike a car when the pedal is on the ground, more or less the same level as the clips. This means that you are trying in to force air down the brake lines, when all the air you want is to reach the top (since it is lighter than the liquid of course). One solution might be the elimination of the lever and master cylinder from the handle and pump handle from a much lower, closer to the level of the clip as possible. I tried this, but because he had to remove the lid of the reservoir to complete the liquid I managed to pour the liquid all over the place. It is not ideal, that brake fluid works as a great paint remover!

So now my method of success! Instead of taking the tank off the handlebars, instead I undid the two screws that hold the caliper to the fork. Then I slid the caliper off the wheel. At this point you will probably find that your bike is different somehow the Superdream, however you should find that you can place a G-clamp (screw end) in the caliper piston. This is only possible if you remove brake pads and any retention pins, etc. may also find that there are several protective rubber skirts around it, etc piston. This should not be a problem, as long as they are not caught in the clip while turning the screw.

With the pads out of the way, I pumped the handle lever a few times and forced the piston far beyond the clamp unit which would normally be able to go. VERY IMPORTANT - DO NOT do this bit too enthusiastically and the piston spring right out of the clamp unit (unless you intend to do a full strip down and want to replace the seals on the piston). This will be very, very dirty and get the piston in the drive will be harder than you think!

Then put the G-Clamp (end of the screw) on the piston and slowly became, until you reach the base of the piston.

Before continuing I removed the lid of the handlebar and then as I turned the air screw vi bubble brake line on his way to the top of the tank. Over time the bubbles stopped coming and I knew that no air had been expelled from the system. The piston was back in its original position and the brake pads can be pulled into place, safe, and the entire unit bolted back into the fork.

Yes was a little more complicated than the conventional bleeding, but was cleaner, without nipples to undo, no plastic tubes held under the surface of the liquid expelled in fact, no fluid in everything had to be ejected from the system. I did not have to pump away on the lever for ages, waiting for a sign of success. The G-Clamp did it all.

At this point, I can see the simple instructions, without which history might be appropriate, so here is the simple version.
1. Loosen the bolts that secure the unit to the fork clamp.

2. Slide the drive out of the wheel clamp.

3. Remove the brake pads and retaining bolts, etc.

4. The pump lever handle slowly until the piston has been a very out of the unit (an inch max.)

5. Slot of a G-Clamp on clamp unit and the position of the end of the screw on the piston.

6. Screw until the end of the screw contacts the base piston.

7. Remove tank cover on the handlebars.

8. Continue screwing G-Clamp and see the little air bubbles to the top of the tank.

9. When there are no air bubbles and the piston is right where he started his work is done.

10. Replace the tank cover, pads brake slide into place and then retaining pins, clip drive safely back to the fork.

At this point I should add that I am not a mechanic and I just mess with bicycles and cars for fun. However, after using this method I took the bike for its annual MOT (Ministry of Transport) test, and it passed with flying colors. Brakes super efficient and safe for the road.

About the Author

Mechanic for fun, artist and other stuff that I'll think about later.

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