Tuscan Winter
Gave birth: a Tuscan delicacy
Pork is a staple of the mountainous regions of northern Italy, where it is often said that a slaughtered pig and must leave nothing but the oink 'behind. As a pig is typically around 30% fat, thrifty locals had to find a way to use and maintain this valuable source of protein, and the result is Lardo.
Lardo Colonnata, to give his full name, is a delicacy produced from pork fat around of the Tuscan mountain town Colonnata. Fortunately for lovers of cured beef, is not only a frugal way of preserving pork fat over the winter - is delicious too!
It is made in large vats called tanks, made of marble from the quarries in the "near white mountain" of Cararra, which first was liberally rubbed with garlic. Then, layers of pork fat, salt, and a special blend of herbs and spices are added until the container is full. The batteries are sealed with a wooden lid and left in the cool mountain caves for 6 months or longer to mature in the clean air.
After the time of maturation is more, the shell open to reveal a silky smooth, tender melting "flesh" that can be eaten in much the same way as Parma ham or other ham.
While Lardo is often used to keep moisture by placing the roast in a thin layer on the skin, it is also delicious simply sliced and eaten with bread, olives, and a good extra virgin olive oil as part of an antipasto course. It is not at all difficult or greasy, and is well worth worth a try, although the idea of eating pure fat leaves you a little scared!
Despite the long years of making Lardo in the traditional way, most of examples you can find at your local deli has been made in a much more industrial environment, mainly as a result of the laws of modern hygiene take precedence over the customs and heritage. Gone are the marble tubs and mountain air, replaced by stainless steel and air conditioning.
However, visitors to the area around you can still get lucky Colonnata Keep him from the old Lardo fact has been proven over the centuries - do not tell the authorities if you do!
About the Author
Andrea is a writer for the Recipedia food and drink glossary where you can read about more Italian delicacies such as Bresaola and Balsamic Vinegar.
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