Disc Rear
1968 Chevy Camaro Disc Brake Swap Part 2
Now the the front of our Muscle Car can stop, lets focus on the back and the part that controls everything.
Stopping In The Front.......And In The Rear!
Coverting rear drums to discs is not that hard, just a bit different than the front. In the rear, you have the axle shaft that goes
into the center section or "pumpkin." Thats where the gears are for the rear. In order to remove the backing plates from the rear,
this is what you need to do: With wheels removed, slide the drum off. It might be tough if rusty. Dont be afraid to get angry and use
some force here. Disconnect all shoes, springs and hardware. In order to remove axles, we need to disconnect them from the rear end.
Get It Out Of The End!
We have a ten bolt rear to deal with, so we unbolted....uh... ten bolts and let the fluid drain out. Be prepared to buy a new gasket and some sealant
along with two quarts of rear end fluid. Once inside, remove the set screw that holds the axle gears to the shaft. Slide out the pin that keeps
the axle from coming and slide the axle out. Simple! At this point, since you are under the car, swap out the brake lines on the rear with the
ones provided. They are a bit shorter, but come with flex lines to the caliper. Bolt on the new backing plate and caliper bracket. Now its
time to slide the axle back and lock it in. Reseal rear end and refill. Slide the rotor on and bolt on the caliper. Keep in mind that the kit also comes with
new rear emergency brake cable sections. They also bolt right on. Thats it!
How To Tie This All Together
Under the hood of our Classic Muscle Car we also needed to upgrade some things as well. We also got a new brake vacuum booster, master cylinder, and proportioning valve.
proportioning valve. These go on with a couple nuts, just like they came off. Be sure to find a port on your intake manifold or your carb to run a vacuum line for your booster.
Be sure to bleed you master cylinder with the hoses provided before hooking any final brake lines. Please note: you might have to bend around some brake lines
to get the perfect fit. Just remember, gentle bends, or the lines will kink. Once competed, you are ready for bleeding. Remember to bleed farthest wheels from the master
cylinder first. Have a friend pump while you bleed or use a hand held power bleeder. Bolt the wheels on and away we go!
Come visit us at http://www.ratrodauthority.com.com for ideas, parts, vehicles and anything to do with Rat Rods, Muscle Cars, and Hot Rods.
About the Author
Started by Art Tupaczewski, his experience in the auto body industry lead him to devise a way to find that "specialty part" for your car quickly, easily, and cost effectively. Whether just starting out, or a seasoned veteran, http://www.ratrodauthority.com has what you need.
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